Frommer's visits the Finger Lakes

Keuka Lake has one of the largest concentrations of wineries in the Finger Lakes, with more than a dozen dotting the banks of the lake. The Keuka Lake Wine Trail (CD 800/440-4898; www.keukawinetrail.com; brochure widely available in the area) comprises eight independent wineries located on or near the lake. Check the trail's website for special scheduled events throughout the year. Pleasant Valley Wine Company {f(, Route 88, Hammondsport (CD607/569-6111; www.pleasantvalleywine.com), established in 1860, is the oldest bonded winery in the Finger Lakes Region, holder of U.S. Bond No.1, in fact. Physically it is the most atmospheric winery in the whole of the region; it retains original buildings carved out of the rocky hillside. Closed for a couple years, new ownership is working to restore it to its former stature. Full tours include an introductory film. It's open year-round: April to December, daily from lOam to 5pm and January to March, Tuesday through Saturday from lOam to 4pm.

The most distinguished winery in the entire region and a favorite of connoisseurs is Dr. Konstantin Frank's Vinifera Wine Cellars, 9749 Middle Rd., Hammondsport (CD800/320-0735; www.drfrankwines.com). Dr. Frank, as it's known, produces outstanding, international award-winning wines, including a splendid Johannisberg riesling and semidry riesling. Though the Finger Lakes aren't yet well known for their reds, Dr. Frank's cabernet sauvignon and pinot noir are quite excellent, and the rare Rkatsiteli and sparkling wines surprisingly good. No tours are offered, but the setting on the slopes of Keuka Lake is lovely and the full tasting is conducted by a lively group of folks who make it fun, not stuffy. Dr. Frankwas a Ukrainian viticulturalist who almost single- handedly brought noble European varietals to the Finger Lakeswhen he began making wine in 1962. It remains a family-owned operation, run by Franks'sson and grandson. It's open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 5pm and Sunday from noon to 5pm. Heron Hill Winery, 9249 County Rte. 76, Hammondsport (<()800/441-4241;www.heronhill.com). hasa gorgeous setting high above Keuka Lake, nice wines (including an excellent Meritage called "Eclipse"), frequent musicevents, and a good gift shop. It's open Monday through Saturday from 10amto Spm and Sunday from noon to 5pm. Not officially part of the Keuka LakeWine Trail, but very near the others that are, Bully Hill Vineyards, 8843 Greyton H. Taylor Memorial Dr., Hammondsport 607/868-3610; www. bullyhill.com),has a reputation asthe one of the zaniest wineries in the region, a reflection of its original owner, a gadfly who left the Taylor winery and repeatedly battled Coca-Cola(for the rights to usethe Taylor name) after it purchased his family'sbusiness.Toursand tastings aim to inject fun into the sometimes formal wine world. Also on the premises are a quite fine restaurant and the Greyton H. Taylor Wine Museum, with antique winemaking implements and artwork (much of which found itsway onto Bully Hill labels) of the owner. Open Monday to Saturday from 9am to 5pm and Sunday from 11am to 5pm; restaurant and wine museum open daily mid-May through October (restaurant for lunch daily, dinner Fri-Sat).